TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA - Day 7

  

Om Namoh Narayanaya

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA

(2nd to 12th Aug 2023)

Author:  Sindhu Satish (Architect & Professor)

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Every inch of my Bhaarat is a Teerthabhumi!

- Swami Vivekananda

DAY 7 - AUG 8th, 2023

Kankroli 

The day started with our usual Piping hot strong coffee at 5.00am. We got ready by 6.00am to assemble at the reception. Tucking all our handbags we loaded ourselves into the bus and set off to Kankroli by 6.45am. It was just 20 min from Nathadwar. 

Kankroli: Similar narrow roads most of the buildings at crossroads... open drains yet, creating an engaging street scape with people, cattle, carts, few tourists’ vehicles all on the streets. Some of the houses around the temple precinct held the vernacular architecture in pride. The lime plastered thick walls, defined windows with floral arches, Jarokhas, low height doors reflected the climate & culturally sensitive built forms. 

As we got down from the bus there stood about 10 Rikshaws in a row with the drivers standing out as though to welcome some Maharaja’s pariwar so straight, that I am sure I could have drawn a straight line without a scale. Group of 6 or 7 we got into those rikshas which took us to the hilltop temple. We entered the palace or Haveli like Gate. The entrance courtyard had the semi covered waiting sheds on the left and on to the right had a small museum which housed few part krishna charitha painting and few of sthala Guruji's with seating benches in the center. The center stairs led to the temple. 

TEMPLE AT KANKROLI

Just like the Nathadwara temple this too turned out to be a palatial Haveli type. Walls exquisite decorated with bright coloured paintings, Elephant procession scenes particularly were the highlights. As we climbed up the front wide stairs, we entered the courtyard and then through passages into a huge hall overseeing the sanctum a large room when compared to the typical Garbaghriha of a traditional temple down south which are agama based.  There stood in Quintessential attire, petite Lord Krishna. Seeking his blessings, we moved through a stair and some more passages and small rooms into yet another hall in anticipation wondering how Mathura Balkrishna would look like. A modest sanctum decorated in plain baby pink backdrop in the velvet thrown which is mostly the Gaddi sat a Mathua Balakrishna tiny yet undoubtedly capturing everyone’s attention. The challenge of placing a tiny idol in the large space was well managed. Despite the crowd we got a heart content darshanam. Unhurried walk back out of the palatial temple we exited on the other end. This led to the Lake. We come out of the arched passages into the balcony. A beautiful, vast Rajsamand lake also known as Rajsamudra lake stretches out before you as picturesque frame of nature. This pleasing sight with cool breeze greeted us. We stood there for a long while spending the most precious moments of realization of completing all the darshans of Pancha Dwarka with nature. 

Kanlroli : Mathura Balkrishna temple 

Enjoying Hot coffee after breakfast @ Kantroli

Rajsamand lake

Museum 

ARCHITECTURE :
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dwarkadhish_Kankroli, https://www.udaipurian.com/blog/kankroli-temple/

After darshan at 8.10 am we were guided by the catering team into another Haveli entrance a narrow foyer and then into an open paved courtyard. An ideal place to have breakfast. We all enjoyed the relatively hot pongal, kesaribath and coffee. We then came out into the Temple front where stood the rickshaws standing in row, this time in an L-shape. We quickly got into them and were dropped at bus stand. From there we could see the palatial temple of Mathura Balkrishna standing atop on the hill dominating the skyline of Kankroli. This scene was captured in my mind. 

Huddled into the AC " bus SriHari " at 9.15 am, done with Darshanam and breakfast we were now on the road to Pushkar. 

With god’s grace Pancha Dwarka yaatra was devoid of any unsavoury events and smooth. I felt extremely lucky to have got this opportunity and heartfelt thanks to my Guru Ravi Maama who took us all and to the rest of the teammates who became reason for me to carry back mindful of colourful cherished memories from this Yatra. For me this Yatra meant Unification of time and space casted by a mould of imagination of Dwapara yuga. Unforgettable and rich experience to remember all my life.

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA - Day 6

  

Om Namoh Narayanaya

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA

(2nd to 12th Aug 2023)

Author:  Sindhu Satish (Architect & Professor)

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Every inch of my Bhaarat is a Teerthabhumi!

- Swami Vivekananda

DAY 6 - AUG 7th, 2023

Nathadwara

We reached Nathadwara at 4.30 am. With heavy drooping eyes I managed to drag myself and handbags to our allotted room at Swagat Hotel. We slept till 6.30 am when they called us for hot coffee. After getting ready by 8.45 am we had breakfast and soon were proceeding to temple for Divya darshanam of Srinathji. Grouped into 6 or 7 we climbed into ubiquitous JUMBO (I call it so for these are big in size) rickshaws and quickly made our way through the winding narrow gallies of Nathadwara and reached the main gate of temple 9.45 am. This was my second time here. Seven years back I had come with my parents and sibling. However, I just could not recollect anything. As we moved in the maze of narrow streets fogged memory of mine started to clear. I could remember few things here and there when my husband made a sincere effort to remind me of the time we were here. I could remember these buzzing shopping streets which led to the open precinct of the temple so suddenly. 

This time there stood a modest but fine Gateway still to be finished to its detail.  

AT SRINATHJI TEMPLE

As We entered the temple following Ravi Maama who led us into the sanctum where Laddu Gopalan was resting behind the screen. This meant that we would get Darshana again only after 11.30 am. As we stood in the group wondering what to do, we were approached by one of the local priests who offered to help us get tickets for the Rajbhog (Divine offerings of various dishes) darshan. This would get us the darshan much sooner than the general queue at Rs. 350/- per person. We bought the tickets and stood in the queue. In fact we were the first for this short route darshan line. We were joined by another couple who told that they were regular visitors to the temple. They told us about the evening Arathi and that we should come for evening darshan insisting that we should not miss it. We reached the entrance closer to the main hall quite early and joined the other long queue people at almost the neck of the entrance. Once inside it was a super chaos with everyone pushing and pulling. Fortunately, we were moving almost close to the front line and got a wonderful Darshan of SrinathJI all decked up and stunning. Mesmerised with the entire setting I do not know how long I managed to stay for I remember not being shoved or urged by the temple people to move although there was a huge moving crowd. I stumbled out of the hypnotic trance suddenly as one of my group mates urged me to move. Following the crowd swiftly we saw Laddu Gopalan and came out of the temple. We did not shop but made our way into different lanes and got acquainted with the streets and the shops. I made a keynote list of items that I would like to buy later in the evening. We caught rickshaws and made our way back to the hotel for lunch. After fulfilling Darshan & good meal we caught on to a quick siesta.  

Evening was very exciting. We planned a lot as to how to manage shopping eating etc after the evening Aarthi. I so longed to drink masala chai and have Malpua, 8,000 years old Indian sweet dish. We caught rickshaws and headed towards temple by 4.30pm. Temple was bursting with people. This time we decided to join in the general queue which took us in a different route. We stood in the queue for a long time. I somehow did not feel bad or irritated because the beautiful part of the palatial temple building around kept me occupied. There were large colourful paintings on the walls of the temple mostly of elephant chariots and royal processions. The vernacular architecture with stone window (Jharokha) projecting from the wall face of a building, in an upper story, overlooking the open court where we stood was intricate and gorgeous. A common feature in classical Indian architecture, most prominent in Rajasthan. Although the constant loud chatting noise emerging out from the static crowd hit my ears, I slipped into my architecture world buffering from sound from all sides. I cannot recollect for how long we stood. After what seemed eternity, we started to move and soon ended up in the same chaotic lines inside. I managed to tear trough the crowd to put myself at best position to witness the enchanting Arathi to Srinathji. I was almost blinded for a moment of flashy baby pink stage and every single deity there including Srinath ji in baby pink with silver border attire. His Sakhis, bed seating, curtains, everything was made of the same cloth material. But what startled my amused mind was that the entire setting was so breathtaking despite this monochrome. It was indeed a moment of bliss.  Perhaps I cannot find right words to explain the experience. With a heavy heart I had to force myself to move out to make way for the incoming devotees. I followed the crowd to see Laddu Gopala. This was yet another heartening scene of delight. Evening attire with such flashy decorations contrasting to that of decorations and ornamentation of south Indian temple deities so different yet such a divine experience. A majestic spectacle in its own right.  As I was walking towards the other end of the stage, I located all our group members with Ravi Maama sitting next to the musicians who were offering sangeet seva to the lord. It was very divine rendering. We sat there for a long time and came out in daze. It took several minutes for all of us to gather ourselves to come to our senses. Mind now so relaxed feeling elated we were charged to the most awaited part of the day. Shopping!!! 

It was almost 6.30 pm. Yet it was bright like early evening. We now spread ourselves into different lanes in search of things that we hoped to buy.  I walked happily with Satish (my husband) who already had charted our route based on my list. We started with Masala chai and Malpua. With our belly full and happy I could focus on my shopping. Several silver jewellery shops were now flashing lights as darkness descended slowly. Streets lit Brightly from the lights from each shop. At this point murky realm of my memories from the previous visit to this place peeped into my head. As though discovering a fleeting moment of joy I shrieked in delight. My husband sighed in relief. His efforts to remind me of the streets, temple, and hotel we stayed back then perhaps did not go waste. I could not help but Succumb to the attractions that gaped at me from each shop. Since Krishna Janmastami was near, I bought a lot of things for the same. Despite long shopping time I realized that there is no fatigue when it comes to shopping. This shopping at Nathadwara particularly was one of the best for me. Perhaps so because it was unique and exclusive. (Krishna Janmastami related).

All of us met eventually by 8.30pm and decided to catch rikshaws and head back to the hotel. Dinner was hot soothing and what more does one need after feasting eyes, stomach, and lightened pockets? I slipped into a good night sleep like a baby. 

HISTORY & ARCHITECTURE: https://myoksha.com/nathdwara-shrinathji-temple/

Srinathji Temple at Nathadwara

Day 7 : To be continued ... click here

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA - Day 5

 

Om Namoh Narayanaya

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA

(2nd to 12th Aug 2023)

Author:  Sindhu Satish (Architect & Professor)

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Every inch of my Bhaarat is a Teerthabhumi!

- Swami Vivekananda

DAY 5 - AUG 6th, 2023

Ahmedabad

On reaching Ahmedabad at 6:00 am in the morning we were in for a surprise. We were stationed in front of a different Hotel- "The Metro INN”. After a brief enquiry we were told that couple of rooms in the previous hotel had problems with plug points, Ac and so on. Hence, the change, a welcomed change I suppose. Our tour organizer instructed us to pack a handbag for next two days to carry with us and rest of the luggage into the bus which would be given to us only at PUSHKAR.

It was supposed to be an open day, meaning we could plan it as we wanted. Many were planning to visit Akshar Dham. We decided to rest a little longer than usual, as we all waited in our assigned rooms which was quite clean and nice for our luggage to be delivered from the previous Hotel. We were served with hot breakfast and coffee in the dining hall. 

We started our day in Sevakala with our Guru. Ramesh Maama had carried Idol and few essentials needed for Sevakala. We recited few shlokas, and verses from Nalayar Divya Prabandham. We consumed Prasada dry fruits which was offered and proceeded to venture out in the city. 

We tried to book 2 cabs for, we were 12 of us.  Since one of the cabs arrived late, we were delayed invariably and it was almost noon by the time, we left to Adalaj. We reached by 1.00 pm. some of us upon reaching early had to wait for the rest. An avenue of trees planted to one side of the central paved path had large canopy shading the few benches which were set aligned to the edge of the path. The other side was occupied by hawkers which was mostly the sparsely covered by few trees.

I started enjoying the pleasant weather, as I inhaled the intoxicating aroma spewed by the roasted and backed corn, watching people buzzing in and out of the Adalaj Vav gate. Soon the rest of group came in and we all headed to experience Adalaj ni Vav as we had already purchased entry tickets for all. 

ADALAJ NI VAV- ARCHITECTURE: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adalaj_Stepwell

We had about an hour to spend here. This extraordinary exquisitely carved flamboyant step well of 15th century served both utilitarian and spiritual purpose for people around. I had been to Rani ki vav a similar step well years before when I had come to Ahmedabad for a conference with my colleagues. I was eager to see this as I had enjoyed the architecture Jewel before.  Inert memories of past visit to Rani ki vav was coming alive as I walked around and down into the well absorbing every bit of beautifully carved elements, beams, walls covered in ornamental carvings with mythological and village scenes, Kalp vriksha (a tree of life) carved out of a single slab of stone which particularly caught my attention. I sat to a side of a landing away from the walking path of visitors to capture a small portion of a wall in my sketch. An architect’s favourite investment of time amidst such beautiful manifests. Somehow, there were many people around that time. We then clicked few pictures and decided to have lunch for we were all hungry and depleted with all the energy. 

At around 2.00 pm we left to eat Gujarati thali to "Gordhan Thal" about 20 min away from Adalaj VAV. External architecture of the restaurant incorporated many vernacular elements and was quite welcoming. However, we were dazed to see large number of families Crowded waiting just outside. Nevertheless, we managed to book for 11 and settled outside on the Jagali waiting. Hunger slowly but surely consuming us. Post delicious, sumptuous Gujarati meal some headed back to hotel while some of us rented a cab to shop for some Patolas & Lehariyas.

Sketch by Sindhu Satish 

Pleased with our shopping we were back at hotel for evening coffee. We had some time after that till 7.30 pm dinner. Although tired and deprived of the sleep I decided to sit and finish a sketch of Adalaj ni Vav. Post dinner at 9.30 pm we were ready to depart. Hoping to get some sleep I plugged in earphones to listen to my favourite Bengali short stories when the bus geared up to speed. 

Day 6 : To be continued ... click here

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA - Day 4

  

Om Namoh Narayanaya

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA

(2nd to 12th Aug 2023)

Author:  Sindhu Satish (Architect & Professor)

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Every inch of my Bhaarat is a Teerthabhumi!

- Swami Vivekananda

DAY 4 - AUG 5th, 2023

Moola Dwarka, Mukthi Dwarka, Porbandar, Veraval & Somanath 

The shrills of alarm woke us up at 4.30am. we were to proceed to Somanath via Porbandar and Veraval which was an entire day’s long journey with packed schedule with few important places to be covered. As usual we started the day at break of the dawn with hot coffee at Side yard which was by now the place where we met for coffee. Sipping coffee while enjoying the breeze heavy with moisture I felt refreshed. As everybody started one by one to assemble at the lobby by 6.30 am I took a stroll around the side yard for I could hear callings of peacock quite clearly. I simply wanted to locate it. There it was perched high so precariously on the tip of a tree branch just behind the compound of the hotel It formed a curious silhouette which changed so minutely as the bird rotated its neck every time it called. Thrilled to have found I tried to take some pictures, but all efforts went futile as it was dark, captures showed only a blurred profile of the bird amidst the dark branches. I rushed back to the front of the hotel to join others who were now loading all their luggage into the bus. 

We left only by 7.15 am as we had to wait for the catering team to join us. Soon they came in so did the intoxicating aroma of the food prepared by them. That was sufficient to induce stings of hunger. Soon we were on our way to see Sri Krishna at moola Dwarka. 

Reached Moola Dwarka at 8.40 am. We went inside the Moola Dwarka temple through the arch gateway climbing few steps. The temple on the contrary to that of Dwarkadhish was sparsely populated most of the crowd from our two buses. Temple sat quaintly in laid-back picturesque setting of a coastal village. The shrine complex had a courtyard behind within the compound. This seemed to be an ideal place for us to have breakfast and so we had breakfast served hot. We had darshan of Lord Krishna. 

STHALAPURANA – Moola Dwarka happens to be one of the important Krishna Dhams situated in Kodinar in Gir Somnath district of Junagadh, Gujarat. It is around 45 km from Somnath and 175 km from the city of Porbandar. It is believed when Lord Krishna travelled from Mathura to Dwaraka, he first established himself in Moola Dwaraka. The Mahabharata legend says that King Jarasandha vowed to wreak vengeance on Krishna for killing his sons and waged wars but always lost. However, Krishna never killed him because it was pronounced by fate that Jarasandha would die at the hands of Bhima and so he proceeded to shift to Dwaraka. He came to Moola Dwaraka, which in times of Mahabharata was believed to have been a flourishing port. Lord Krishna and his brother Balaram stayed here before settling down at Dwaraka. Lord Krishna had stopped in Porbandar at the village of Visaavda on his way to Dwarka. In its remembrance in Visaavda (Moola Dwarka) Lord Krishna’s “paduka” (footprint) can be seen in this temple. A grand fair is organised every year in the village on the special occasion of Janmashtami. A stone slab commemorating his arrival is present here. Since this was the primary place that he set foot, so it’s called Moola (origin or root) Dwaraka.  

ARCHITECTURE - Temple complex had small shrines of Neelkant Mahadeva, Rama Lakshmana Janaki, Ganeshji, Brahmaji, main Neelkant Mahadev, Suryanarayana, Sri Saraswathi, Sri Narayan ji, Sri Lakshmi. Shiv and Vishnu are after all the two sides of the same coin. The temple complex built in the typical style of Nagara style is modest in its size, scale, and appearance. The small shrines located around the main shrine orients themselves appropriately for the devotees to visit each of them as they take pradakshina. Couple of trees provided shade in the open prakara. With only the sounds of chirping birds my mind drifted to imagine this precinct in the times of Mahabharata. I could only feel at peace sitting here in this serene temple in front of these deities. 

SPECIAL FEATURES: There is a deep well near the temple where Krishna had his holy bath. Even during severe drought, this well doesn’t get dried up. 

Close to the temple complex is a stepwell, known as the Jnana Vav, sometimes also called Jnanvapi. ‘Jnan’ is more popularly pronounced as “Gyan” in most places today. The early 13th century being considered the period in which the Jnan Vav came into being. Truly remarkable vav is 700-year-old, is a distinct L-shaped structure. Overall, quite small, the vav is entered via a stepped corridor which runs from south to north and then turns east abruptly. Possibly the water diviner who was at work when the well was being dug got it wrong when the north-south passage was dug and suggested as eastward swing towards a subsoil water source. The real reason will never be known. Embellishing the VAV are several niches, some of which still have Hindu icons within. There are small sculptures of Vishnu, Surya and Brahma that have survived the wrath of time. 

STHALAPURANA: The Vav predates the temples, and a local legend links the two. During 13th century when Visavada was part of the territory ruled by the Jethvas of Ghumli, a man named Vinzat lived here. A great devotee of Krishna, he would bathe each day in the waters of the VAV and then make his journey to Dwarka for a darshan of the god. As he grew older, this daily journey became difficult to undertake and he decided to build temples closer. Thus, the temple complex came into being. However, there seems to be a disconnect in the dating of the temples. While a board put up by the state archaeology department says that the temples date to the 17th century, historians claim that an inscription within a niche inside one of the temples mentions the year 1206 CE. The later would be more in line with the Vinzat story. 

Today, visitors exploring the place see flocks of pigeons’ rest in the cool confines of the VAV. Suddenly, they take a flight, almost as if Vinzat has emerged from his daily ablutions, on his way to pray at Moola Dwarka. 

pic source: https://velpu.com/temple/mul-dwarka-temple/MTA3Ng

We came out of the temple and went around the VAV in search of a public toilet showed to us by a local elderly person. To our surprise it was not only clean but had water to flush in small worn-out sort of a bucket. A man sat nearby claiming to be maintaining the two single small toilets took whatever money we gave. We took some picture under the shades of a huge banyan tree and walked somewhat reluctantly as we wanted to enjoy tree shade and cool breeze for some more time.  

At around 9.45 am we started towards Porbandar arriving at 10.16 am.  We got down from the bus and were ushered to a rikshaw stand. These rikshaws ubiquitous in this city could easily take in six to seven people. It was again prefixed by organizers and so we sat blissfully feasting our eyes with old town beautiful buildings as we rode towards Gandhi Ashram. 

GANDHI ASHRAM - The home in Porbandar where Gandhi Ji was born was brought by his great-grandfather Harjivanji Rahidasji Gandhi. He bought it from a local lady called Manba as a single-story house. By the time Gandhiji was born on Oct 2nd, 1869, the house had 3 floors. With rooms and corridors put together, the house has 22 rooms as per the information board at the property. Gandhiji’s father and grandfather were the Dewans of the Kings of Porbandar a prestigious position and the house or haveli reflects their social status.

The Gandhi family’s ancestral home lies to left of Kirti Mandir. As one enters the house through a plain wall which seems to be a later addition, it announces – Birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi Ji. A small foyer open to sky surrounded by tall pale walls outlined in green is welcoming space. This front courtyard has pillars and wood carved frame – all in green. The doors and windows are in bright cheerful green color. 

There were many huge ornate buildings around it clearly indicating a rich, affluent town.

ARCHITECTURE: https://www.gujarattourism.com/saurashtra/porbandar/kirti-mandir.html

Keerti Mandir Museum next to birthplace of Gandhi Ji

Room Where Gandhi Ji was born

As I walked from the Ashrama towards the Rikshaw stand I enjoyed the colonial era architecture which most of the buildings on the street sported. 

We continued in the same auto rikshaw wading through the bustling market area of Porbandar reached Sudama temple which stands in the middle of the market by 11.15am. A green precinct dotted with shading large canopy trees was a soothing sight to mind and body. We walked through the wide-open gate around a huge Peeple tree we walked to the light pink temple palace of Sudhama. towards standing amidst copious trees. I could spot many newlyweds Rajasthani young couples in the temple. This reminded me of the importance of this place to them. 

At the temple I saw a beautiful painting hung on a prakara wall depicting a scene where Lord Krishna is visiting Sudhama who looks very old and frail while Lord himself look young and glowing with good health. This stayed with me bothering me of the depiction of both their age. They were childhood classmates and are of same age. How could Sudama look so old? Little did I know that this question would be answered by Ravi Maama soon.

SUDHAMA DHAM:

Porbandar was known as “Pauravelakul” and thereafter renamed as “Sudhamapuri”. This place is a very important to kshatriyas of Rajasthan since it is the birthplace of Sudhama (Lord Krishna`s friend) and Mirabai (devotee of Lord Krishna). Even today, most Rajasthanis come to take the blessings of Sudama after their marriage. The Sudhama temple has been built to commemorate the friendship between Lord Krishna and his trusted friend, Sudhama. There is maze near the temple. It is believed that passing through the maze one attains moksha. I see this more symbolically as to one must go through the tough and smooth times to complete the journey of our life. 

ARCHITECTURE: 

Although the temple dates to 12th century the current temple structure was constructed in early 20th century (between 1902 to 1907). The temple is simple but adorned with marble pillars and an intricately sculpted shikhara. It also has a small stepwell in the complex. It also has another monument in the green complex, which has been constructed in the memory of Shri Ram Devji Jethwa, the ruler of Jethwa Dynasty.

Sudhama Dham

STHALAPURANA: https://www.holydham.com/the-story-of-lord-krishnas-friend-sudama/

From Sudhama Dham by 11.45 am each group headed towards the Rikshaw stand where we climbed back into our bus soon racing towards Veraval.  At around 12.50 pm we stopped at a beautiful spot so ideal for our lunch near Navi bander about 30 kms from Porbandar.  

The pit stop for lunch was selected very cautiously. A small Devi temple sat on a secerned scape.  In front of that to one side was a huge area about quarter of an acre paved, the rear end of it had water taps. The entire area was naturally shaded with two huge peepal trees with wide canopy. Katte around it was simply a picture-perfect spot to have lunch.  As the catering team started serving us lunch, we spread across and sat on the paved ground enjoying the tasty food. 

Ravi Maama made this time even more memorable as he fed food for our brains. A question on the painting that we saw at Sudhama Dham – “why does Sudhama appears so old and poor at the time of Krishna’s vist where Sri Krishna appears so young and healthy despite them both being of same age? - Made us actively give out our answers. However, Maama enlightened us with the fact behind the scenes. 

The story goes like this. Back when Krishna and Sudhama were kids their activities during the days when they were living as students. Once they went to collect fuel from the forest on the order of the guru’s wife. She had given Sudhama some beaten rice to share it with Krishna when they would be hungry. While they were collecting the dried wood, they entered the dense forest by chance and became lost. There was an unexpected dust storm and then clouds and lightning in the sky and the explosive sound of thunder. Then sunset came, and we were lost in the dark jungle. “After this, there was severe rainfall; the whole ground was overflooded with water, and we could not trace out the way to return to our guru’s house. They sat on tree branches to sleep through the night. At that time Sudhama ate all the beaten rice given to him without offering it to Lord Krishna. As they grew and days passed, we know how they had to move on with different paths and were separated. When they met, Sudhama appeared aged whereas Lord Krishna appeared young and healthy since Sudhama did not offer the food to the Lord and ate it all himself. Hence, we should offer God everything before we eat. The food then is consumed as God’s Prasadam. Since that is prasadam it is important that we sit and eat it with respect. 

Painting At Sudhama dhama temple

After the sumptuous lunch at 1.45pm we set off happily to our next destination Veraval. Time flew as I watched along the Arabian sea for few kms these coastal villages, people going about their chores, coconut groves fields, although I thought of taking a nap kept gazing out of the window all the way.

At around 4.00 pm we reached Veraval, 5 km from Somnath where we visited Prabhas Kshetra, the place also known as Balika Teerth and MUKTHI DHAM.

Mukti Dham

POST KURUKSHETRA WAR

The war of Kurukshetra ended with the destruction of Kauravas. All 100 sons of Dritharastra and Gandhari were killed. It is said that on the night before passing away of Duryodhana, Krishna paid a condolence visit to Gandhari. She was grieving for her sons and in her grief, she cursed Krishna for causing utter destruction of entire Kaurava lineage. She predicted Krishna’s own lineage would siege to exist after 36 years. As per legend Sea water rushed to claim the city of Dwarka. Krishna took his Yadav tribes by boat to higher ground to a place called Prabhas Patan. Around 200 kms away which was the ancient name for Somanath. Once Krishna’s Yadav clans had reached the higher altitudes of Prabhas began celebrating and became intoxicated. This led to a brawl in which they killed one another. Krishna and Balaram had to flee for their own life into the Jungles of Prabhas. Balram gave up his life through YOGA while Krishna sat under a tree in meditation.  A hunter JARA saw Krishna’s left foot moving and mistook it for a twitching ear of a dear and shot an arrow in its direction wounding him fatally. Hunter Jara in his previous life was Vaali and Lord Ram killed Vaali on his back (which Vaali had considered as cheating). So, in his next life when Lord Rama appeared as Lord Krishna was killed in a similar way paying for his sin by accepting death from Vaali or Jara.

A beautiful Nagara style temple. The sacred stage adorned with beautiful statue of Lord Krishna in resting position, and the holy tree in which Krishna sat! As we exit the temple on the other side is the Water Pond (Kalyani) which is the Prabhas tirtha. We all sprinkled the holy water on our head before hurrying back to our bus. Since we had to reach Somnath and did not have the luxury of time. There were many visitors here at that time.  A large, compounded temple precinct also had Toilets as the far end right after the entrance. 

We started towards Somnath at 4.15 pm and reached Somnath at around 5.00 pm. We were taken to a choultry where we rested for about half an hour till, we were served with much needed hot coffee. Soon after drinking our evening dose of coffee, we came out and soon were hoping into the ubiquitous rickshaws in a group of 6 or 7 all booked by our tour organizer and speeded off to Somnath. We had 2 hours to see Somnath. 

SOMANATH 

Places of interest along Triveni Sangam, Snanghat and River Hiren - listed anticlockwise as one drives from Somnath Mahadev main entrance gate.

Balaji Mandir – Brahma kund and Saraswati Devi temple - Somnath beach - Harihara Van – Rudralay Mahadev Temple – Parashuramji Temple - Cremation Yard - Kali Mandir– Triveni Ghat; Dehotsarg; Baldev Gufa – Kamnath Mahadev Mandir and Sharada Mutt – Suraj or Surya mandir – Panch Pandav Gufa or Hinglaj Mata Gufa – Gita Mandir – Lakshminarayan Temple – Kasi Vishvanath mandir - Betthakji of Mahaprabuhji – Bhimnath Mahadev – Jain temple – Dholeshwar Mahadev Mandir

Riksha-stand was about few hundred meters away from Somnath temple. As we got down, we went to see Lakshmi Narayana temple located just about 100 mts away. The temple had typical Dravida style of gopuram. Central Garbhagriha housing Laksmi Narayana moorty and a pradakshina patha. Briefly seeking his blessings, we walked towards Somanath temple. Since we did not have much time, we skipped most of the other temples around. 

Lakshminarayana Temple

Beating the glassy winds there stood the magnificent Somnath temple. With its Nagara style shikara Sri mandir, Jagamohan, and mantapa the temple skyline dominated the shores of Arabian sea.  

LEGEND OF SOMANATH

The Somanath temple was created and destroyed 8 times. There is fascinating legend that surrounds the origins of Somanath known as Prabhas Patan during Krishna’s times. It is the very place where Krishna breathed his last. It is believed that the first temple was constructed by Som. The moon God in Gold and hence the name Somnath. The next one was built by Ravan in Silver and the third one was built by Krishna in Sandal wood. If we were to set aside the legends, we would have to acknowledge the well-established historical fact that king BhimDev of Anhilwad Patan built the first Temple in present site in stone. This was said to have existed before the beginning of common era. So officially this would be considered as the first. The second temple was built by the Vallabhi chieftains who were Yadavs. This temple was constructed probably in the 7th century. In the year 725CE Junaid who was the Arab governor of SIND sent his army to destroy the temple. There after the Prathihar king Nagbhat II reconstructed the temple in 9th century. The 3rd temple was a substantial structure built from the red sandstone. In 1024 CE Mahmud of Ghazni in what central Afghanistan of would be today attacked Somnath after crossing the Thar desert. After looting all the riches of the temple, he destroyed most of it, Including the main Shivlingam. The 4th temple was then constructed by the Parmar King Bhoj of Malwas and the Solanki king Bhim of Anilwawad sometime in the 11th century. The wooden structure had to be replaced because of wear and tear. King kumar pal of pali replaced this temple to a stone one. That would have been the 5th one. In the year 1296 the temple was yet again disintegrated and eventually destroyed by Turkic Afghan Sultan Allaudin Khilji’s army. Mahipal Dev the Chudasama king of Saurashtra rebuilt the temple in the early part of the 12th century.   His son Khengara installed the Shivlingam around 15 years later. This was the 6th, Somanath Temple. In 1375 the temple was attacked by the Muzaffar shah Zafar the sultan of Gujarat. Somanath was planted again by Mahmud Begada another sultan of Gujarat in 1451. The final blow fell in 1701 when the temple was destroyed by Mughal ruler Aurangzeb. He built a mosque on the site of the temple. Around 80 years later another temple was built at a site adjacent to the mosque jointly by Peshwa of Pune, Raja Bhosle of Nagpur, Chatrapati Bhosle of Kolhapur, Queen Ahilya bai Holkar of Indore, Patil Bhuv shinde of Gwalior. This was the 7th temple. More than 160 years passed before Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel India’s first home minister took upon himself the responsibility of reconstructing the temple at the original site. The mosque was shifted to the nearby site and the Pran prathista ceremony invoking GOD was performed in the temple by the first president of India. Dr. Rajendra Prasad. 11-May-1951. This was the 8th and current temple. 

Zakaria was a Persian traveller who wrote about Somnath Temple in the 13th century translated title would be “Monuments of countries and memoirs of Men”. He had given the description of the temple and vivid details of its destruction by Mohmud Ghazni. He writes that among the wonders of Somnath was the temple and its Idol called Somnath. This Idol was in the middle of the temple without anything to support it from below or to suspend it from above. It was held in highest honour among Hindus and whoever saw it was stuck with amazement weather it was a Muslim or Infidel. Hindus would go on a pilgrimage whenever there was an eclipse of a moon more than a hundred thousand. Everything of the most precious was brought there as offerings. The edifice was built upon 56 teak pillars covered with lead. The shrine of the Idol was dark but was lighted by the jewel chandeliers of great value. The solid gold chains with bells weighed nearly 200 tones. 

SOMANATH EXPERIENCE & ARCHITECTURE

The exquisite temple sits in the celebrated city of Somnath situated in the shore of the sea and washed by its waves. The most significant pilgrimage sites for Hindus and is also the first of 12 jyotirlinga temples in India.  We entered the temple following the long queue of devotees walked in and out after Linga darshanam and decided to explore its external beauty.

ARCHITECTURE: https://www.gujarattourism.com/saurashtra/gir-somnath/somnath-temple.html

Somnath Temple: Late Evening

Hit by a sense of calmness and cosmic energy the moment I step inside the premises the entire time in that precinct was just out of the world experience for me, more so because of its legendry historical past. With almost choregraphed movements elated by the sight of the temple I walked with others. I could not help but lose myself into the figment of imagination marvelled at the power of the mind trying to reconstruct the same not one or two but 8 times. A massive timeless beauty. Oblivious to my surroundings I was engrossed consuming every bit of architecture. I now could easily discern that it was a combination of Nagara, Hoysala and Dravida style of architecture. The Adishtana undoubtedly resembling Hoysala architecture.

 

As we sat for almost 40 to 45 minutes on the lawn behind the temple I could only gape and wondered with the history of this Incredible and mind-blowing piece of Architecture. Still relishing the sight which came across the horizon of my heart gracing it with its beauty I walked like a lost soul to join the others. 

We assembled back at the choutry by 7.45 pm. Dinner was served. Still dazed with the experience of Somanath we ate dinner almost in silence unlike our chatty selves. Lemon Rasam particularly was very tasty. We all relaxed, chatting as we waited for the cooking team to eat their dinner, clean up and join us. I made a quick call to Sameeksha (my daughter) who was staying at my mother's home to enquire about her performance in her exams. Somehow, I missed her here the most. Soon it was time to hop into our bus as we resumed our journey back to Ahmedabad by 9.15 pm. 

My only apprehension of night travel in the bus was to find an appropriate position to sleep. I kept twisting and tossing all night. Uncomfortable and discomposed as I tried to position my arms, legs, and head suitably for most part of the night. It felt as though the movement of bus slow and laboured. I guess I might have had just about 2 hours of sleep in the night.

Day 5 : To be continued ... click here

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA - Day 3

  

Om Namoh Narayanaya

TEERTHAYAATRA TO PANCHA DWARAKA

(2nd to 12th Aug 2023)

Author:  Sindhu Satish (Architect & Professor)

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Every inch of my Bhaarat is a Teerthabhumi!

- Swami Vivekananda

DAY 3 - AUG 4th, 2023

GOMTI DWARAKA, BEYT DWARKA, RUKMINI DWARKA 

Reaching Dwaraka by 4.00am we got out of our bus bleary eyed and entered Hotel “Swati”. Coming out of double height elegantly designed lobby the receptionist greeted and welcomed us in. A central seating hall separated the dining area from the lobby. At its rear end a staircase and a lift led to the upper floors. This seating hall formed a courtyard kind of a space with Corridors looking into this opening while giving access to rooms on all floors. I was little apprehensive about the hotel after what we experienced at Ahmedabad. However, once I entered the small but well-designed, neatly kept room and a super clean bathroom, I was happy. I tried to catch up on some sleep but in vain. Nevertheless, by 6.30 am we were already dressed up and gulping fresh, hot coffee which was served in the back yard of the hotel. I could hear the callings of peacocks although failed to locate it anywhere around the compound. One by one everyone from our group assembled in the seating area and soon we headed out to THE Dwarkadhish temple. 

We ladies were all in madisar (traditional Iyengar style saree), hence took the local rickshaw while men decided to walk to the temple. It was about few hundred meters from the hotel where we stayed.

We sighted a breathtaking profile of a tall shikara as soon as we reached the neck of the approach road to the temple precinct. Above the stupi was the first Dwaja (flag) flying. After depositing our phones and footwears. We quickly fell into the lines which took men and women in separate queues nside. As we entered the courtyard, magnificent temple of Dwarkadhish held our attention.  

Sketch by Ravi Krishnan

I stood there for a moment longer than the others appreciating the architecture, consuming its beauty before running to join the queue blissfully unaware of the possible crowd inside. I was taken by surprise with crowded ladies queue. The choc-a-block crowd was overwhelming but oozing out excitement from the chanting of Radhe Radhe. I stood stupefied not sure of which way to go. The crowd seemed impenetrable, yet I managed to stay in some line amidst all the push pulls and loud chanting. Divine darshan of Dwarkadhish left me in a trance. I was not sure if I had a good look at him. Wondering and lost in those thoughts I came out only to be pulled back again by my friend into what seemed like a secondary queue where both men and women entered, and this was short route which took us straight Infront of the sanctum. Infectious that it was we continued to go again and again in the short queue to feast our eyes of Divine Darshanam of Dwarkadhish. Finally, after four rounds we were happy and decided to see other deities in the precinct. We rode back in the rickshaws to Hotel Swati to have our breakfast. It was 8. 30 am. We trouped out again at 9.30 am towards temple greedily for few more darshans for it was only post lunch we were to visit Beyt Dwaraka. 

This time a spontaneous conversation was picked up by a young local temple priest who recognised us as Sri Vaishnavas. Of course, dressed in traditional attire there was no doubt we stood out in the entire crowd.  Nihal (the young priest) enthusiastically told us about Sthala purana, Dwarkadhish temple rituals, importance behind them and symbolic architecture of temple etc. while we stood waiting Nihal told us about how his ancestors who came from the Lineage of Vasudeva * Yadava clan and that he is very proud continuing his service in the temple. Nihal promised us to show Rajbhog Arthi, and so we remained in the prakara. With enriched awareness of the temple rituals unaware of the unexpected turn of events, I keenly waited along with the others in a corner of the temple prakara consuming all the activities around us. Amidst moving crowds, a group of ladies sat singing bhajans right in the center of the prakara, while another group of locals were busy with some more rituals in another corner. Harboured with fear and respect to the Lord Dwarkadhish coming from rural places these people seemed blissful in their own world. 

KRISHNA’S CLAN:  We are aware that Lord Krisna belonged to the Yadava clan.  This clan could have been the first democratic society ever. The were a confederation of 18 tribes. Each tribe had their own chieftain. However, all of them elected one Yadav leader as their supreme governor. Lord Krishna was the elected governor and thus was the leader or head of all the 18 tribes but without a title of a King.

As we stood waiting Nihal went inside and tried to make a special way for us. "There was a great roar from the delirious crowd “gathered near the entrance line simply flooded in as soon as the screen was pulled, and Dwarkadhish unveiled with all the Rajbhog placed in front of him ready for the Aarthi. We were conveniently pushed behind and didn't have the luxury of time. Soon Rajbhog darshan was over. We had lost a good chance to observe Rajbhog seva. However, although I was utterly disappointed, I told myself to come again for the night darshan with resolve in mind and hope in my heart.

KRISHNA’S CITY OF DWARAKA

Lord Krishna and his beloved Golden city of Dwaraka would have been part of an evolved settlement, THE SARASWATHI DWARAKA. Krishna’s city was called Dwaravati, in Samskrutha, which means the city of many doors. Common belief of the local people was that the Lord Krishna’s city was submerged 6 times and rebuilt on each occasion. Hence the modern ay Dwaraka is supposedly the 7th incarnation of the original. Dwarka was an embodiment of Spatha Dweepa. 

Krishna asks the divine architect Vishwakarma to build Dwarka city. Vishwakarma builds the city on the submerged remains of the previous empire Kushrasthali (ancient name of Dwarka). Massive expanse of land was reclaimed from the sea to achieve this. The fabulously beautiful city of Dwaraka that emerged in Gujarat was a city of palaces gardens, lakes, temples, sculptures, and unimaginable wealth. 

Few kms off the cost of Gujarat the legendary city of Dwarika was explored in 80s by the famous archaeologist S.R. Rao led expedition. They dived the into the seas off the coast of modern day Dwaraka to search for the legendary Dwaraka. The team soon discovered stone walls underwater and 6 layers of ruins, proof of what was written in the ancient text that the city had been built upon previous cities. They located an ancient harbour seal with animal motifs, Vishnu idols, and even massive triangular stone anchors indicative of the maritime trade of Dwarika. The archaeological survey of India and the National institute of Oceanography initially discovered the submerged ruins just off the present day’s city of Dwaraka at a depth of 15 to 20m below sea level. Dwarka is a continuum a city built and rebuilt 7 times. The most recent reconstruction is the modern-day city and the oldest is out in the ocean where rising sea levels have inundated it. The estimation of it is around 9 km along the seabed of the gulf of Kutch at a depth of between 25 and 40 m. As a proof to the Dwarka here is the same Dwarka that has been described in the Mahabharat we need to do a cursory reading of the Harivansh. It tells us that the land was reclaimed from the ocean to construct Dwarka. 

This text describes how Dwarka was conceived and constructed.

कल्पितेयं मया भूमिः पश्य त्वं देवसद्मवत् !

नाम चास्याः कृतं पुर्याः ख्यातिं यदुपास्यति!!

Lord Krishna said, ‘Look at this land selected by me. It is almost like heaven. I have also decided a name for this city by which it will become famous.’

इयं द्वारवती नाम पृथिव्यां निर्मिता मया!

भविष्यति पुरी रम्या शक्रस्येव अमरावती!! 

‘This city made by me on Earth, named Dwaravati, will be splendid like Indra’s city of Amaravati.’

तस्मिन्नेव ततः काले शिल्पाचार्यो महामतिः!

विश्वकर्मा सुरश्रेष्ठः कृष्णस्य प्रमुखे स्थितः!!

At that very instant, the preceptor of architects, Vishwakarma, the best among the devas with great intellect, stood before Lord Krishna.

विश्वकर्मोवाच

शक्रेण प्रेषितः तव विष्णो धृतव्रतः !

 किंकरःसमनुप्राप्तः शाधि मां किं करोमि ते !!

Vishvakarma said, ‘O Vishnu, the One who is firmly resolute! Sent here urgently by Indra, I have come here as your servant. Tell me, what do you want me to do?’

तदियं पूः प्रकाशार्धं निवेश्य मयि सुव्रत!

मत्प्रभावानुरूपैश्च गृहैश्चेयं समन्ततः!!

Lord Krishna said, ‘Construct a city for me, suitable to my splendour, along with houses showing your incredible skill.’

मम स्थानमिदं कारय यथा वै त्रिदिवे तथा!

मर्त्याः पश्यन्तु मे लक्ष्मीं पुरीं यदुकुलस्य च!! 

‘Make my palace as though it were in heaven. Let men see my city as the seat of prosperity of the Yadava people.’

सर्वमेतत् करिष्यामि यत्त्वयाभिहितं प्रभो!

पुरीत्वियं जनस्य न पर्याप्ता भविष्यतीति !!

Vishwakarma said, ‘O Lord, I will do all that you wish but the area that you have marked will be insufficient as a city for your people.’

यदिच्छेत्सागरहा किमचिदुत्क्रष्टुमापि तोयरत ततः स्वायतलक्षण्य पुरी स्यातपुरुषोत्तम।

‘If the king of the oceans yields some space, O the best among men, then the city will be adequate and proper with all good signs.’

एव,’ प्रत्युवाच सर खनसिक्सबमेफामुक्तस्ततः कृष्णः प्रागेव कृतनिष-चायह सागरमसरिताम् नाथमुवच वदतं वराह |

Hearing what was said, Lord Krishna, the best among speakers, who had already made up his mind, spoke to the ocean—the lord of rivers.

समुद्र दशा च द्वे च योजनानि जलशये प्रतिसंहृतमात्मा यद्यस्ति मयि मन्यते।

 ‘O Ocean! Please leave an area of ten and two yojanas within you if you respect me.’

अवकाशे त्वया दत पुरयम् ममकं बलं पर्याप्तविशाय रम्य समाग्राम विसाहश्यति।

‘With the area that would be yielded by you, this city will be sufficiently large to support my entire army.

ततः कृष्णस्य वचनं श्रुत्वा नदानदीपतिः स मरुतेन योगेन उत्सर्ज जलाशयम्।

Hearing Krishna’s words, the ocean, along with the help of wind, left the area hitherto occupied by water.

In ancient texts even science was conveyed in magical terms. A complex task of engineering land reclamation has been described as praying to the ocean to yield 12 yojanas of land. All the structures that were discovered by the archaeological team so far show that the foundations are not on the ground, but they are on a bed specially made of boulders. The traditional method of land reclamation involves throwing massive quantity of boulders into the sea. As the water withdraw one is then free to construct on the bed of rock thus been created. This proves that land reclamation was undertaken in ancient times. Hindu scriptures talk of the universe consisting of Sapta dweep – All 7 islands could have been in ancient Dwaraka itself. It was the world!

HISTORY & ARCHITECTURE – GOMTHI DWARKA

Sitting impressively at the cusp of Gomti River and the Arabian, Jagat Mandir also known as Trilok Sundar (the most beautiful in all the three worlds) of Dwarkadhish, the main temple at the Dwarka city of Gujarat’s Devbhoomi Dwarka district is one among the Pancha Dwarka or Nava Dwarka. This temple site protected by the Archaeological Survey of India is visited by Vaishnava devotees all through the year in great number. Originally believed to be built by Vajranabh, the great grandson of Lord Krishna, more than 2500 years ago, it is a glorious structure. 

In 800CE, the temple was renovated by philosopher and theologian Adi Shankaracharya, and a memorial of his visit is placed within the temple’s complex. Thereafter, there are believed to have been several renovations. The temple faced a major destruction in 1472. Thus, the present structure of the temple seen in Dwarka was rebuilt in the 16th century in the Chalukya style of architecture and is quite different from the original temple.

The temple is built of soft limestone and consists of a sanctum, vestibule, and a rectangular hall with porches on three sides. Its exquisitely carved Shikhar is of 7 storeys reaching 43 m high and the huge flag made from 52 yards of cloth over the kalash can be seen from as far away as 10 km. The flag which depicts the Sun and the Moon, symbolising that as long as Sun and the Moon exist, so will Lord Krishna. The walls contain carvings of mythical creatures as well as popular legends, pristine condition.

The temple has two gates – Swarga Dwar in the south and Moksha Dwar in the north. Moksha Dwar means the Door to Salvation. Salvation or Moksha is a key phenomenon linked to Lord Krishna since it is the central point of his message to Arjun in the Bhagavad Gita before war of Mahabharata ensued. This entrance connects the temple with the main market. On the other hand, the Swarga Dwar or Gate to Heaven leads to the Gomti River via the flight of 56 steps leading to the rear side of the edifice on the side of the river Gomti. 

The grandeur of the temple is enhanced by Colourful dwaj which I believe is changed about 6 times. The temple is open to visitors between 6 am to 1 pm and then from 5 pm to 9:30 pm. Best time to visit the temple is during the Krishna Janmashtami, which marks the birth of Lord Krishna, as the festival is celebrated with much fervour and enthusiasm at the Dwarkadhish Temple.

Dwarkadhish Temple: Night view

We were aware that we must take a boat about 5 km in the ocean to reach Beyt Dwarka via Okha and that the boat connectivity can be sporadic and delayed in the evenings we left early by 3.00 pm after a sumptuous lunch and siesta. 

Modern Dwarka that I saw on the way to Beyt Dwarka was simply a municipality of Jamnagar district in Gujarat, which seemed liked any other city of India hopelessly trying to cope with overcrowding, pollution, and traffic. I looked out of the window only to be greeted with usual mess like in any other city with potholed roads, stray dogs, vehicles, vendors justling for space a super chaos surrounding.

Description of Lord Krishna’s Golden city of Dwarka now occupied my mind. Excitement built up in anticipation of seeing Beyt Dwarka the residence of Lord Krishna during his ruling years at Dwarka my imagination was growing richer by minute. Floating in that imagination I sat oblivious to the surroundings. Before I realised, I was told that we were at Okha. It was just about 20 mins from Dwarka by road. 

We got down from the bus and walked to the ferry terminal to get into the boat, which was identified by Balaji Maama, I could feel the sweat trickling down my back. The August air uncomfortably humid resulting in profuse perspiration. It was only drizzling lightly fortunately not heavy rains for, none of us carried any umbrellas. The boat ride in the ocean ended even before I could settle in to feel the ocean waft and the odour of the sea had just started to tickle my nose and we were already there. It took us only about 10 mins to reach. Upon reaching I saw scores of boats tied along the shore. We walked on what seemed like a long edge road about 300mts from the ferry terminal to reach the temple. There were many petty tea and sweet stalls along this road near temple. We were not allowed to carry mobile phones, but no place to deposit them. Hence, we all dumped them into a big bag and left it with Balaji Maama who waited for us outside. The temple closes at 12:30 pm and opens only at 4.30 pm hence we had to wait a good full hour before we could go in. The precinct was a huge courtyard which was dominated by a big banyan tree shading a vast ground below it. The place was incredibly crowded with many devotees. Like in all other temples here too there was two separate queues for women and men. The modest temple fine and beautiful sculptures showcasing scenes from Krishna’s life on its external wall. The deity resembles that of Dwarkadhish at Gomthi Dwarka. Most of this seemed to have reconstructed or restored on the old ruins. However, I was utterly disappointed probably because I was hoping to find some reference to my imagined golden city. I could neither appreciate the poorly maintained temple surroundings nor the lack of crowd management from the temple administration. 

We climbed into the same boat that took us to Beyt and soon were on the sea. We came to know that the ferry rides would soon be a thing of the past as we saw a cable sea- bridge already manifested would soon be ready that would connect Okha to Beyt Dwarka making the island accessible by road. In the bus as we were heading back to Dwaraka, I noticed the Okha port housing 3000 odd fishing boats. 

Beyt Dwarka: Ferry 

HISTORY & ARCHITECTURE – BEYT DWARKA

Idol of Lord is at least 5000-year-old, dating minimum 3500 BC. It was created and worshipped by Rukmini Devi herself, thus being of significance.https://www.tirthayatra.org/bet-dwarka/

On the way back we visited RUKMINI DWARKA, yet another beautiful modest temple dedicated to Lord Lord Krishna’s chief consort Rukmini, incarnation of Goddess Laksmi.  

RUKMINI DWARKA: 2500 years old reconstructed over times and the current one being built in 12th century with some reconstructions as late as 19th century this temple is located relatively at the outskirts of the Dwarka city. Carvings of gods and goddesses embellish the exteriors, and the main idol of Rukmini is housed in the sanctum. Modest but beautiful temple. As we started to walk up and into the modest temple for Rukmini Devi’s darshan we realised a crowd gathered already were being addressed by the priest. He was reciting the legend associated with this temple. We gathered behind the crowd. The place was simply infested by houseflies and soon they were getting too irritating. I was extremely distracted by these houseflies and could hardly focus on what was being told by the priest. Once the crowd started to move in, I let it slide from my thoughts and came to my senses, as planned before donating for water to the person who sat in a corner to collect the money for water on the way back after darshan. Goddess Rukmini looked beautiful with sankha, chakra and gada in her hands.

Rukmini Devi’s Temple 

STHALA PURANA: After marriage, the newlywed couple (Lord Krishna and Rukmini) invited sage Durvasa to their abode seeking his blessings. But Sage Durvasa told them that he will come, only when they take him personally on the chariot without the horses. Sage Durvasa is renowned for anger. Lord Krishna and his wife Rukmini pulled the chariot removing the horses as desired by the great sage. After a certain distance, Rukmini was thirsty and informed Lord Krishna. He pressed his toe on the earth and Ganges came there to quench their thirst. However, when they forgot to ask their guest if he wanted some water as courtesy Sage got angry. Stating that he was insulted he cursed Rukmini, that she will remain there separated from her husband for 12 years. He also cursed that the water surrounding the area will be salty. Rukmini did a great yagna for 12 years and then was united with Lord Krishna. Pilgrims visiting this temple therefore can donate good water to the locals for a money, if they wish. 

On return to our hotel, I wasted no time, quickly freshened up changed into fresh clothes, went to dining hall for our daily dose of evening coffee. Then I got out with Satish and Ranga to see the Dwarkadhish temple in the night light. We took a rickshaw that left us to the Gomti ghat at the rear end of the Temple. With almost choregraphed movements as I walked on the edge of the ghat feeling the cold wind caressing my face I could see the tip of the shikhara with a golden profile like a Figment of imagination. I walked now hurriedly to see it from a closer distance. As we came to the foot of the north entrance 50 steps leading to Swarga Dwar from Gomti ghat I was elated by the sight of gorgeously lit temple shikara and dwaj. 

We decided to walk around it to reach Moksha Dwar in the south which connected the main market since the others would come there to meet us before going into the temple. We met the others deposited our phones and footwears and proceeded to have 8.00pm Shayan Aarthi and darshan. 

Anticipating the usual crowded situation, I carefully made my way into the queue and stood on my toes to get the better view of the Aarthi. I managed to balance myself on a ledge near the door which gave me a straight view to the divine sight of Dwarkadhish. I stood there for the entire time of Aarthi. I truly cannot describe the feelings of that time in words. My eyes brimming with tears of happiness thanking the Lord for his gracious darshan I could only mutter hope in the heart never lets u down. I guess this truly made it up for the loss of Rajbhog Aarthi. 

We ladies could not find the men and so we decided to go out and do some quick shopping. We must have been at store for more than 30 to 40 mins and still men were not out of the temple yet. Wondering we stood near the footwear counter waiting for them. It must have been close to 15 mins when they came out grinning end to end. Taken over by the desire to see the Lord again and again, they went 4 times in the queue for darshan and the last time they were stuck as the screen was drawn and until it was opened, they could not move. Anyways, everyone seemed tremendously happy and so we all hoped into rickshaws to return to the hotel. 

Soon we were holding plates and lined up again, only now to worship our bellies. 

Day 4 : To be continued ... click here